After I left Tlatelolco, I took the bus back and got off near the Belles Artes building. The building is probably the epicenter of high culture in Mexico City, with museum exhibits, a performing arts hall and murals by Diego Rivera and other famous Mexican painters. I was running a little behind schedule, so I didn't have time to visit inside, and for some reason, museums make me very, very sleepy.
So instead I headed for the nearest Metro station and headed south on the subway to Coyoacan. Before I write about Coyoacan, I thought I would say a few words about the Mexico City Metro. Your typical guidebook gives you this impression that the Metro is a den of pickpockets and thieves, so when I first went to Mexico City in 2005 I was a little apprehensive. Once I actually got on the Metro my fears subsided instantly. I think the guidebooks must have liability concerns because the Metro is a cakewalk compared to riding nearly any Metro bus in Seattle, where I live. Generally, on the Mexico City Metro people are polite and quiet, especially in the middle of the day on weekdays. On weekends and during rush hours it gets crowded and a little noisier, but no big deal.
The strangest thing are the vendors who come through the cars selling their wares. You hear them before you see them. The sales pitch comes on loud, high and trilling. Often I've seen guys with giant boom boxes hanging on their chest, cranked up as loud as they can go and playing the mix CD they've got for sale. There was also the lady selling these giant pencils, this was the end of August so I assumed it was some kind of back to school sale. Usually, people seem to ignore the vendors with this kind of world weary stare ahead. I don't think I've ever seen a sale made, but I'm sure it happens.
What I'm trying to say is, if you're going to go to Mexico City, get over any fears you might have and take the Metro. Buy a money belt if you're scared about pickpockets and don't look like a tourist (no shorts, okay. Actually I actually saw a couple Mexican men wearing shorts in Mexico City this time. That was a first.). The metro is the fastest easiest and cheapest way to get around Mexico City. It's 2 pesos (about 17 cents) to go anywhere in the city as long as you don't leave the station. You could ride the thing all day long (not that I suggest you do) for 2 pesos. You will quickly find that riding a bus (unless they are bus rapid transit or have dedicated lanes), a taxi, a rental car (don't) or a colectivo (it's a little bus) will take you forever to get anywhere unless it's early in the morning or late at night. Especially if where you're going is a long way, like Coyoacan.
Next: your guide arrives in Coyoacan.
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
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